Hatching Quail Eggs

Congratulations! You have taken the first steps to become a Japanese Coturnix Quail owner and lover! Raising quail from eggs is one of the most satisfying and exciting things to do for multiple reasons, but that’s a topic for a different day! Today we are focusing on hatching this curious birds! So what are the first steps?

First, lets briefly discuss why hatching quail eggs is an option for you! Not only is the incubation process an exiting task, but buying live quail is not always a feasible option for most.

Not everyone lives in areas that offer live quail for locall pick up, and buying live quail online can come at a premium cost! However, almost anyone can order quail hatching eggs online from multiple sources and save a good amount of money in doing so.

I would strongly recommend everyone to look into their local market and see what is offered first and see if you can purchase live quail at a reasonable price. But for most, this isn’t an option. So let’s proceed to the excitement.



Lets start by covering the basic materials! Before you look into ordering quail eggs, there are a few items you are going to need.

1. An Incubator: https://amzn.to/3efdDrU

2. An Egg Turner: https://amzn.to/3edyfkk

3. Temperature Gauge: https://amzn.to/3BabYhs

4. Humidity Gauge: https://amzn.to/3BabYhs

5. Brooder heat source: https://amzn.to/3i3qsac

It is going to be a little of an investment the first year, but rest assure this equipment will pay for itself over time.

For your incubator, there are multiple styles and brands to consider, but the incubator I use and recommend is the HovaBator 1602N. https://amzn.to/3efdDrU Not only is it sturdy and simple to use and will last for years, but it is also bundled with an egg turner! I have tried several types and have continued to use this style for the past few years and I do not see myself changing anytime soon! The bundled egg turner will work, but iff you would like to upgrade, the Hova Bator Qual to Duck is my favorite! https://amzn.to/3edyfkk

You will also need a sturdy and accurate thermometer and humidity gauge. This is crucial!!! The easiest way to have a horrible hatch rate is by having the wrong temperature or humidity during the gestation. https://amzn.to/3BabYhs

Last, once the quail have hatched, you will need a brooder set up and a reliable and safe heat source. I have found heat plates to be the best and safest option available! https://amzn.to/3i3qsac


Once you have your equipment, its time to order the Eggs! There are multiple sources to get eggs, these include locally such as Craigslist or local ads such as Facebook or you can look look online on websites such as eBay, or online breeders. I personally have gotten some from reputable certified sellers on eBay but the majority of my eggs have come from myshirefarm.com There you will be able to choose from different variety of breeds and colors!


Okay, you ordered your eggs and they are soon to arrive! Now the fun really begins!!!

The first thing you should do it set your incubator to 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit and 50% humidity. I recommend you set your incubator at least 24 hours prior to your eggs arriving so that you have time to make adjustments as needed.

Once your eggs arrive in the mail, it is good practice to place the eggs pointy side down and let them come to room temperature for about 12 hours before placing them into the incubator. This will let the air sac inside the egg settle and let the egg slowly warm up naturally.

Once the eggs have settled and you have triple checked the temperature and humidity, it is safe to place the eggs pointy side down onto your quail egg turner. If you do not have an egg turner, you can write an X with a pencil on one side of the egg and hand turn the egg three times a day.

Now we wait! Let the eggs turn on the turner for the first 14 days without touching them. (If you are hand turning, keep turning for the first 14 days) The only work that you need to do is insure the humidity stays at 50% by adding water every other day or so.

You may also candle the eggs after day 5 by placing a strong light under the egg in a dark room to look for veins and development of the chick.


On day 15, it is time to stop turning the eggs. You can remove the egg turner from the incubator and place the eggs on their sides inside the incubator. (If hand turning, simply stop turning the eggs)

It is also time to add more water to increase the humidity to 70%. The added humidity is essential to make the egg shell more palpable and easier for the chick to hatch! The quail eggs will hatch within the next three days!!!

It is important to understand that an average hatch rate of shipped hatching eggs is 70%. Considering the factors of fertility, and shipping, 70% isn’t too bad. Over time, you may be able to increase your hatch rate to 75-80 and maybe more!

Last, It is critical to let your quail hatch on their own and keep the incubator closed! You do not want to keep opening and closing the incubator during the hatching period as that can greatly alter the humidity and essentially create a vacuum and seal any unhatched eggs.



I give my chicks 24 hours in the incubator once hatched before I remove them and place them into the brooder. They have plenty of reserve food and will be find during this period.

For the brooder, I tend to use a large tote with a heat plate for the first week and then upgrade the brooder to an outdoor set up to give them more space to grow and after the second week, I remove the heat plate as they are nearly fully feathered out and no longer need the extra heat.

An as simple as that, you are done!!! Be sure to take pictures of your experience as I can almost guarantee you will fall in love with the process and be amazed at how fast these quail begin to grow!

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New Zealand Rabbits Standard Of Perfection

Welcome to Aviarybirdsandco.com, where we focus on breeding and raising different species to the Standard of Perfection. For those who are new, you may ask yourself what is the significance of raising, and more importantly breeding, to reach the perfect standard?

As a whole, is it important to set and reach a endpoints of what experts have determined to be ‘perfection’. This allows breeders from all over the country, as well as the world, understand what a purebred animal should look like, and what characteristics that animal breed should show. It is also important to understand that different breeds are bred to exemplify certain characteristics that others should not have. For example, a rabbit raised to produce wool will have different features than a rabbit bred to be more meatier and to that of a rabbit bred to be smaller and more “pet” friendly. Usually, a rabbit breed is bred to satisfy a trait and bred to satisfy that need.

A good breeder will understand what characteristics are set for their specific breed and strive to produce and exceed those qualifications. You may ask yourself what are those standards for the breeds and who determines them? For rabbits, the answer is the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA), and more specifically, the ARBA Standard of Perfection Handbook for Standard Bred Rabbits and Cavies. You can find this book at many retail locations, but the sure fire site is the ARBA’s website it self. (arba.net) I highly recommend anyone who is seeking to produce and raise any rabbits acquire this book.

As a Red New Zealand Breeder, I want to take some time and discuss the Standard Of Perfection for this breed to hopefully help other breeders who are getting into Red New Zealands and have not yet purchased the book, or maybe a new breeder who is interested in raising Red New Zealand’s but are not sure this is the breed for them.

This is not a replacement for the book, but more of a resource to help others understand what to look for as well as inform new breeder that there is a goal when producing rabbit offspring. I also want to make it clear that I am no expert nor professional, but only a breeder who is striving to produce the breed to the standard of its perfection.

So, lets get started.

For those who are new, the above image is what a typical Red New Zealand Rabbit will look like. To most it is a picture of a regular rabbit who happens to have red fur, but to others, they can see what this rabbit has great and what it is lacking. So what should we be looking at when looking at the image? What traits should we look for according to the Standard of Perfection? Well, first lets start with the sex and age of the animal, as this is a good separation in comparing like size animals.

First, senior Bucks categorized as the age of 8 months and over should weigh in between 9 to 11 pounds with 10 pounds being the ideal weight.

Senior Does, in the same age category should be heavier at 10 to 11 pounds with he ideal weight of 11 pounds. This should show you that female rabbits should be bigger and heavier than the similar aged male.

The ARBA has separate guild lines for younger classes of Bucks and Does, but as a breeder I like to focus on the senior class, as this is what I will be working with; however, it is also important to understand that Junior Bucks and Does between the ages of 6 and 8 months should be at least 6 pounds but should not exceed 9 pounds. Knowing this will help you decide which rabbits will be good to keep and add to your breeding program. It is also a good idea to keep weight records of your herd and only keep and sale rabbits for breeding that fall under this criteria.

Next, it is important to understand that the New Zealand rabbit is raised as a “meat” type and should show such features in its body. If you are looking to show rabbits, then this is the criteria that is important to understand. To save time, I will only touch on a few features in this and I highly recommend anybody looking to show to purchase the Standards Of Perfection handbook as the criteria in points and grades is extensive.

But, as a breeder, it is important to understand what to look to insure you are producing high quality rabbits that will look like a New Zealand and not a cross. First, it is important to look for a rabbit that has a broad and smooth hind quarter. The hindquarters should look just as deep as it is wide, this is a strong attribute of a meat producer. Next, the midsection should be broad and meaty on both sides of the spine and should have a strong deep section from the top to the bottom of the rabbit. Last, the feet and legs should be medium heavy showing fullness and look stout showing a nice and healthy posture.

The picture above shows a young Broken Red New Zealand Doe, that even though not properly posed, you can see she is a little on the smaller side and is lacking a good hindquarters. Preferably, I would like to see a wider and more broad hindquarter and more developed shoulders to show more “meatiness”. This is something to note when matching her with a future breeding buck. But, this doe brings me to the next topic, color.

New Zealand’s come in Black, Blue, White, Red, and Broken in each of the designated colors. Each color variation has its own criteria but I will only touch on the Reds. The Red should be a bright red and not be too dark. The color should carry down to the hair follicle as much as possible.

The Red New Zealand is permitted to have white on the underside of the tail as well as on both the front and rear foot pads. It is important that the rabbit does not have white specks throughout the body and should maintain that bright red throughout.

When looking at the Broken Red New Zealand, which has both white and red, they should have bright red color on both of the ears, eyes, nose, and should have a color over the remaining back and body, preferably having an balanced red and white pattern.

With that being said, your breeding stock does not necessarily have to meet each criteria to a T, but as a breeder, you should understand your rabbits flaws and match them with a partner that will help the offspring hopefully develop traits that the parents are lacking.

It is easier said than done and it is important to understand that not all of the kits in the litter will show the the perfect traits, and that’s okay. But over time, selecting the best and breeding the best to reach the standard is what the Standard of Perfection is all about! I hope this helped you in one way or another. I wish you the best of luck in your breeding endeavors! Happy Raising!

Breeding Zebra Finches

Your at your local pet store when you hear the distinct call that carries you to the cages of, you guessed it, the zebra finches. Its the verify distinct yet calming call that attracted you to their cage, and once your eyes settle on the source of that noise, you fall in love with their beauty. Naturally, you decide you want to raise a few fincehs of your own. Lets talk basics.

Zebra finches come in several differnt colors with the most common being the standard grey, solid whites, or a mixture of the two. They’re all beutiful at the site regardless of their gender, although the males will have more color to them as they will have two solid orange/red patches on their cheeks, red streak chest, and if its breeding season, a dark blood red beak.

Grey Male Zebra Finch

Now that you know the differnce between the mails and the females, its time to choose your pair. The most common place to purchase your birds is your local pet store, and against popular opinion, is a good place to start looking. Nonetheless, if you can find a good breeder in your area, that may be the better option. Regardless, you want to look for the livliest birds you can get your hands on. Watch them fly and move around. One thing that you will notice is that zebra finches are energetic; they are always moving. Look to make sure the birds you choose can move smoothlu and look healthy. Insure that they dont have crusty eyes, have clean feathers and do not look puffy. Like most animals, a sick zebra finch will stand by themselves in the corner and puff up. Best to start off strong and by the healthiest birds you can get.

Now that you have chosen your birds, lets talk about their setup. Lets start with their cage. I would recommend the biggets HORIZONTAL cage that you can afford. Keep in mind that zebra finches like to fly, and they fly from side to side; not up and down. I use and recommend the You and Me Rectangle Flight cage. (30 inches wide) you can find it on Amazon here: https://amzn.to/2S7moMR

Once you have your cage chosen, its time to add their nest. From my experience, zebra finches like to feel secure and protected in their nest, so keep that in mind when selecting your nest. I find that the woven nest that you can purchase at your local stores will work, just make sure to choose the biggest one they have. Since you are already there, be sure to pick up a cuttle bone as well. This cuttle bone will make sure that your birds remain healthy, particulalry your female finch who will need that extra calcium to produce her eggs. It goes without saying, but I should probablt mention, that you should purchase finch specific feed as well.

Now lets talk about cage placement. If you want your birds to be comfortable enough to start a family of their own, its important to remember that finches feel safe being able to see as much as they can, aka a birds eye view. We can simulate this with height. Be sure to place your cage at least at eye level or above to insure your finch feels safe enough to want to nest. The nest itself should also be placed towards the top back end of the cage. Once you have the nest, cuttlebone, and any toys (swings) in place, it is time to introduce your finches to their nest.

Lets play the wait game. Patience. It is important to undertsand that finches reach reproduction age at 6 months age. Typically, it is safe to assume that pet store birds are on average two to three months old, so you may have to wait a little longer. Regardless, finches will still build their nest at an early age, but you wont see any eggs until they have reached maturity. You can purchase nesting material at the store, but any soft household material can work as well. I like to cut paper napkins into half inch wide strands that are anywhere from four to seven inches long. You can then simply place them at the bottom of the cage and watch them build their nest. Normally the male will initiate the build and hold the cut peice of napkin in its mouth to show/intice the female. Allow them a few hours to build and add nesting material as neccessary.

Once you see that the nest has been built, and reproductive age is reached, it only a matter of time before you will see your first egg. The female finch will lay one egg a day until she has a clutch size of four to six eggs. Once she has laid all her eggs, she will then start sitting on them and only leave the nest a few times a day to eat, stretch, and drink. When you notice your fich laying on her clutch, you can then count twelve to fourteen days until you can expect to see your first finch baby.

Congratulations!!! Your a grandparent!

Rasing babiess is another story. Stay tuned…